You need to really look at how they each fit too. I’m going back on 2009 to try to make it in less time in preparation for the Denali. This is the daily blog from this climb. Depending on the exchange rate you would only be saving a small amount of money, so I probably would buy them in Belgium if I was you, and that way you know that you have them and in your size. I guess there will always be a debate about whether the gaiter on any of these boots should go under or over the down. Representatives from Scarpa arn’t sure when they’ll be available but they sure look like amazing after seeing one of them on k2 this year (http://www.fredrikericsson.com/). Gear. Once you know what you want, then I’d just buy from whoever can give you the best price. I think this is overkill and if you then went and used the same boots on Everest, you run the risk that your earlier use of them will have compressed the liners and reduced their thermal insulating capabilities. do you think the nepal gtx would suffice as well? Free Shoe Winners will be randomly selected each month and contacted via email. I’d steer clear of the Batura for what you need. Perhaps they have improved this in the new model, but it still says that that the upper is made out of cordura. We want to climb Huascaran alpine style and use them in the winter in the alps… Thanks! However, I noticed that more teams this year are climbing trekking peaks for acclimatisation and doing one less rotation through the icefall. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. In which case it is better to go for 8000 m boots like the Olympus Mons, Millet Everest, Phantom 8000 etc. You don’t need a tight fit for Aconcagua and you don’t want a tight fit which would reduce circulation in your feet. Remember it’s not going to take a large fall. Then tie an overhand knot in nice and close to secure the clove hitch. Have a look at your local store too and see what they have that you can try on. It’s just not worth it. Wow this blog seems like an incredibly valuable resource! Re going back into the mountains, you’ll probably find that your feet will forever be more sensitive to the cold and you’ll need to be very careful in the future. I know that its not as safe as having a screw gate carabiner, but I find that it’s too slow and difficult to use with gloves so I end up not using it at all. Again, thanks! I have been looking at the Asolo AFS800 but dont about the fit or much about the boot. Hi Alex, I am surprised you can’t find Millet Everest in the UK, given that they are made in France. I am usually a UK size 7/ EU 41. I have some Asolo AFS 8000 boots, but they are no where near as warm as the Millet’s or La Sportiva. Hope this makes sense. 'Plastics' like the Scarpa Omega or Vega, preferably with a high altitude rated inner boot for warmth (eg for Elbrus). The way I actually assemble it, is get all the knots done and adjusted, then tape, then trim. triple boots - Millet Everest and LS Oly Mons by HeyItsBen » Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:46 am 4 Replies 3420 Views Last post by HeyItsBen Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:58 am Spantik (44) vs Oly Mons (45) for 7000m by Karakorum-2 » Sun Dec 07, 2014 3:46 pm 7 Replies 2830 Views Hi Paul Nice That you give us all the information and very good website. If you put them into your gloves where they get even less air, before they are really warm, then they will never be very hot. Sincerely, Rob “Boots” Ludwig. My contact in Kathmandu is Nawang Sherpa, ph 977-1-4487269. Bestard Spider K seems tough..what say you? Wool or fleece ski hat. I do have a question, but it’s not about boots. After doing some research on what are the best high altitude boots I have chosen two boots. Our mountains are not that high, but yes, there are other disciplines one can do to compensate. I keep them in my boots all the time and always take a set of batteries with me even if I don’t think I’ll need them. I was looking at the Millet Everest GTX too. So the trade-off is weight (approx 5Kg compared to 2.5Kg) with sturdiness and warmth. The boots comes with oil lube for the Tzip to make sure it’s always workin’ out. I didn’t want to go with LaSportiva after seeing my friend’s Olympus destroyed just trying to put them on; the zip didn’t work on one boot at 6000m and the nylon hook to put your finger stayed in his hand, on both boots. Do you have any sugestion of what kind of boot I should be using for this kind of ascent? Regarding boots, would La Sportiva or Millet be overkill for Denali? We used plastic Koflach boots on Aconcagua, but we were pretty lucky with good weather. They really are worth the money. The reason why I mention this in particular is that I have encountered quite a few people who have had to cut away at the side of the heel on their Everest Millets to enable their crampon heel clip to fit properly. I leave the laces undone and the whole thing very loose, so that nothing impedes circulation. Happy feet make for great climbs! A bad sign is blisters that end before the extremities of your toes. Thats what my wife (Fiona) did with her Olympus Mons. I am trying to source a boot for Lhotse next year. They have always been a very light boot too. So basically tie one end with a clove hitch and secure with overhand knot and tape over knots with duct tape (will the cold not affect the “stickyness of the tape? No boot in SA is available in my size 4 foot. I haven’t managed to get the boots scientifically tested and do an exact like for like comparison … but my gut reaction is that they are pretty much as warm as each other and are certainly up to the job of performing at 8,000+ metres. Do you have any suggestions/recommendations? Really nice discussion out here, thanks for the tips Paul! They have Millet Everest boots at EU429 ex VAT, which is a good price. What boots you finally decided on and how did you manage to obtain them? I see you haven’t had a response yet……here’s two cents worth: When I climbed Lobuche I wore plastics (Scarpa Vega). The boot and the inner boot looked more advanced than the Millet, and the bottom grip looked/felt very similar. and “don’t be stupid dude. Hi. I am glad to have come across your comments on this forum. It can take a while for the boots to get warm, and if you put your feet into cold boots, it will make your feet cold and cause the blood vessels to constrict in this area, thereby reducing the amount of blood circulating. Great for the cold evenings at Base Camp, and up higher. Thankyou. I know this isn’t really answering the question, but having had frostbite and lost toes, I’d be very wary about taking anything other than top of the line boots on a mountain line Denali. I’d recommend this if you can, with the socks that you are likely to be wearing. The main protagonists are La Sportiva (Olympus Mons), Scarpa (8,000ers) and Millet (Everest), and The North Face is also a more recent newcomer with their Verto S8K. Contact me, Rob Ludwig anytime at email@example.com or call me in North America at 1-949-600-3894. Hi Paul (and Peter), I’ll be climbing Ama Dablam at the same time, Oct/Nov (see you there Peter). I echo everything Paul has said about the Mons-I love them-never had cold feet in them. Should the La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX also be purchased two sizes larger than my normal US shoe size? I’m from South Africa and I’m battling to find a pair of boots for myself. It’s hard to tell without seeing them, but I think that these boots wouldn’t be great for technical ice climbing (too sloppy), but for Rainer and Aconcagua they would be perfect. Plastic double boots are OK for Lobuche or Camp 2. These liners will fit into any Alpine Climbing boot with a removeable liner. It is a mountaineering boot built for the highest and coldest expeditions, like Everest, Antarctica and other Himalayan peaks. Regarding the Hotronics, I don’t think that they should be relied upon. The first few days after the incident are critical, so I’d try to see someone ASAP if you haven’t already. The difference with the super gaiter is that the sole of the boot is fully exposed as opposed to gaiters such as the Forty Below K2 or Purple Haze models so commonly used on Denali etc… You may want to do a search on http://www.cascadeclimbers.com or http://www.summitpost.com tons of info for Aconcauga there as well. But the ones you suggest would be fine. Not being familiar with mouldable liners, I am scepticle about the extent to which these can be molded and if indeed they would help in the areas around the foot where I have a lot of room inside the shell. I really like the small size of the boot, just afraid how much warmth it really provides…. If was going up high then I would be getting the Olympus Mons and if it was lower I’d probably buy the Nepal Evo (lighter). but i did climb rainier in the summer with just regular scarpa hiking boot with vibram soles while i saw some people in plastics over there-just can’t imagine doing that. Conversely a slim, low volume boot will possibly be a bit light on the temperature ratings. Thick wool or wool/wool blend socks. Infection can be a real problem with frostbite recovery. If you are climbing something bigger and want Millet Everest boots, you can buy these in Kathmandu for about $550US. how about Denali? I found it best to just call them and talk to them over the phone. Millet or La Sportiva make warmer and lighter boots (La Sportiva are probably the lightest around, but the Millets are close). iM new to all this and the forum. It’s a really good point you make about sizing boots. Hi, Another Question: Are you familiar with the Gronell G1 boots? Rather they should be thought of as a backup in case the weather is colder than expected or you got stuck and needed to bivouac. Even though I’ve lost toes, it’s one of the best lessons that I have ever had as I’d much rather have an issue on my feet than my hands. If it goes over and is too slimline then it may well compress the down and create a cold lower leg which, in turn, will cause less warmth to flow to the foot. Within reason you can use any boot to get to EBC, but it can get cold going through the icefall early in the morning, so you’d want something reasonable. there is La sportiva nepal evo gtx and trango extrem evo lt gtx wich one is the best…and my foot size 43 2/3 so if i buy boots 44 2/3 it is good? Winter Skills; Rock Climbing; Fees; Everest. These liners are extremely LIGHT WEIGHT, WARM, DRY EASILY and QUICKLY while you sleep with them in your bag. I’m going up Elbrus in July but I live in South Africa and the choice of plastic boots is very limited here, especially for ladies. Also, the gaiter only has one zip- but it did look stronger than the millets smaller zip. http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Mountain-Boots/Vega-HA-SCA-VEGAHA. I am climbing Elbrus in June and hopefully Everest in 2010 or 2011 with some high altitude climbs in between. I wouldn’t take my Nepal Evos to anywhere out of the lower 48 states, let alone in a place where you’ll have to sleep on a mountain for several days and deal with weather inclement. The general consensus is that they wouldn’t buy them again unless these issues were addressed. If you were going to get a bigger boot, Millet One Sports would be better on Ama Dablam than La Sportiva Olympus Mons, as the latter’s soles will wear out very quickly on rock. What about weight, ease of use, durability, etc.? I also think that they are lighter. It’s really frustrating as I’ve been trying to get a boot here for about 6 months and have come up dry and have been shrugged off by the stores here. I haven’t climb mt. While the Phantoms have been OK, there’s a very good reason why 95% of climbers on 8000 metre peaks wear just two makes of boot: Millet Everest, or these ones (a figure gleaned from my own observation rather than a thorough statistical analysis). Next. Kaspar. Have you tried the Millet Everest boots on? I look forward to the next review and hopefully in time some of last years problems will be discussed. This is my first time using a commercial group or any type of guiding (always liked to do it on my own) but also first climb in Himalaya — so should be an different experience I’m rather looking forward to. However I have not seen many people using these boots and wondered how well they performed compared to the Millet, especially on warmth? Pair of expedition double boots with built-in gaiter, e.g. ), Excuse my ignorance, could you explain “and flicking the fixed line you can clip and unclip very quickly when using large gloves, without needing to actually press the gate (the fixed rope presses on the gate)”. i also have a pair of RBH design socks which have had very positive reviews from climbers around the world, however hadn’t had a chance to test them in extreme cold temps either. Dear Nabs. If you didn’t want to have to worry about the cold (or do feel the cold), but want lightweight boots, then buy La Sportiva Olympus Mons EVO, which weigh about the same as the Nepal EVO GTX, but are capable of going all the way to the summit. What about the Millet Alpinist GTX. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Yellow Black. Thank you! La Sportiva Olympus Mons, dbl boots part 4 The last of the blogs on currently easy to acquire (at least in North America) dbl boots. 1 color available. It’s actually quite warm at that time of year, so you might find that you don’t use your down jacket at all. From what I was told at the time, the key recovery after frost bite is to avoid doing anything that will further damage the blood vessels and to do things that will increase the blood flow. The sole on the Olympus Mons is very soft (I ruined a pair on Aconcagua before I realized how soft). Maybe it didn’t work well and wasn’t worth the weight? Please step forward the most recent version of the very successful La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo. The commentary on the brands are great but the procedures on what worked for you is just what some of us are looking for. That’s why my suggestion is to stick with boots that are more commonly used, rather than try something like this. Take some chemical handwarmers with you for your Island Peak Summit day. Was reading about the importance of buying a big enough size to compensate for feet swelling at altitude… good tip! Nepal Evos are one-day only boots in cold weather because they don’t have an inner-liner that you can take out and dry at night. I have tried on a La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in a 48 and it fits nicely but was worried about the warmth and much I could use it after Elbrus and its expensive here in S.A. I haven’t seen these and I’d personally be very careful about taking something new up that was as important as boots. If there are blisters, that’s a good sign, but don’t prick them. The end result is a boot with huge room in the toe box (i.e. Tall peaks is actually how the boot got its name, Olympus Mons, is the tallest peak in the solar system, which is 85.3k feet tall (26 kilometers, 16 miles). Regards, Paul. Mons is nearly the size of France — look at this graphic from Wikipedia. My alternative is the sportive spatiks with purple hayze over booties, Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated Craig. To say that you’ll trust temperatures to be fairly high throughout the climb is similar as saying that you could cross a highway blindfolded if it’s only at 3.am. Although mine are cracked, they still are going strong and haven’t fallen off yet. Cheers, Paul. Im also planning to do Aconcagua, and then some Himalayas afterwards and are tossing up between a few different boots. 5 5 out of 5 stars from 1 reviews 5 1. For C3 and higher most climbers prefer the Millet Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons or other type high altitude boots. I made the summit in 10Hrs but I used the Koflach Arctis Expe and I feel that I could use some thing more suitable. What was the weight comparison of the Scarpa to Millet One Sport? Wouldn’t the rope be to long with the up and down motion of the ascender and tied to your harness? I trashed a pair on Aconcagua-fortunately the zipper failed so the company replaced the pair and I haven’t used them without crampons since. I figure this is better, but the choice is up to you. On Everest I used Millet Everest III boots. Half the time I wear it, I end up being so hot that I have to unzip every zip there is on it. I presume that you are doing one of the normal routes on Denali, so its not going to be technical and therefore it doesn’t matter if the boot is a bit too big. The Karrimor sits too high on my shoulders). sale Current price: $899.25 Original price: $1,199.00 25% off. newsletter and acknowledge your consent to receive email communications from La Sportiva N.A. They fit my feet better (the most important consideration), they are not nearly as bulky, and they allow me to do more technical climbing. I take your point about the stiffness… here in Scotland I now winter climb mostly with Nepal Extreme leather boot… but when living in New England and climbing on Mt Washington etc… I mostly used stiff plastics… so I’m rather used to them. Depending on where you are starting, you will have a 2-5 days of walking over rocky terrain both in and out of the route (unless you are traversing). Pair of down or synthetic tent booties. So I’d buy new boots. Some people I know have used La Sportiva One Sport Evo boots – the same ones you would use on Everest. I always wear the insoles with element inside and carry a battery, so I just need to plug it in if I get cold feet. Lighter boots will save you a lot of effort, plus enable you to move faster, which is important through the icefall. The Millet Alpinist GTX look good too. Everyday the mountains surround the people who handcraft your shoes. 2) I would imagine no warranty since they operate under Mammot now. Thanks, Peter. Here is a great review on a friends blog on the Spantik and the Scarpas that is priceless. For what its worth, I don’t worry about boots with gaiters any more. Paul. Thanks for this very interesting overview, the best I found online so far. First, thanks for making this site, I have found lots of useful and insightful information here. Hope yours and Fiona’s lives are going well! (we want to book a tour just with us 2), greetings from very snowless austria! Preamble … I am sure that you are well acquainted with the concept of layering – creating air pockets and trapping layers of warm air between garments – whether that be the upper body, legs, head or hands. Technical, sturdy and reliable, those mountaineering boots are ideal for demanding mountain climbers. I am having a hard time deciding between the olympus mons and baruntse with 40 below purple haze overboots. That said, Attila, who climbed with La Sportiva One Sport Evo boots on Aconcagua this year, reckoned the temperature was so cold, he wouldn’t have got up, if he didn’t have them. Im on Everest 2010 and am planning to take my favorite comfy Koflachs Verticals (super wide feet) for the lower part and have purchased some new “Intuition” high alitude liners from Canada, which are meant to be super warm, and…. Like the Everest Millet (reviewed elsewhere) the boot is warm. On that note I have tried the Grivel G12 and the Petzl Vasak crampons and the Vasak provides a very nice fit indeed. I had to order a larger pair than I wanted and I haven’t had any issues climbing in them. Assuming that you are going to the North Col during either of the two climbing seasons, you could use pretty much any decent, reasonably new plastic mountaineering boots. Luckily the local shop we bought them from provided a replacement. So what do you think would be a lightest combo for me? If you can’t use thick socks, then you could consider some hotronic electric footwarmers to compensate without adding bulk. I would only consider La Sportiva Olympus Mons or Millet Everest for this. I then put lots of duct tape over the clove hitch/overhand knot and down the rope about 25cm to make a very stiff handle encompassing both the rope and the bottom end of the carbiner (all the knots will be covered in tape). Mine weigh 2340 grams or a little over 5lbs each. 4. The Millet claims a wait of 2640 for size 8 and the La Sportiva 2520 for non-specified size (I suspect for size 9, … They are only a little bit heavier too (200g). Millet Everests are definitely too heavy. I plan to use Koflack with a special inner boots and 40 Below overboots and toewarmer chemical packets/patches. The alternative is the La Sportiva Olympus Mons EVO and at 5lbs 6oz for the pair, these are a lot lighter. Have you been on any other high altitude mountains since Elbrus? Hi Guys Hope this finds you all well. How many sizes bigger than your actual foot size did you go? I was wondering if any of you guys can share your experience of frostbite recovery, I tried to search online but can’t find too much info other than the emergency care. No frostbite whatsoever. Paul. It’s very important with your feet to avoid them getting cold in the first place, because otherwise the blood vessels constrict making it even harder to warm them up again. Your email address will not be published. Everest in the past 4 years: Gerry Moffatt in 2009, and most recently Chris Davenport this past year. Try it yourself with a fixed rope and let me know how you go (tie a long rope down at both ends, making it pretty tight – in the middle lifts off the ground no more than 50cm). I take it that you don’t want to consider the La Sportiva, which will be lighter again (Olympus Mons Evo is 2.26kg for the pair compared with approximately 2.7kg for the Scarpa Phantom & Millet Everest GTX)? I have a regular routine that I follow for getting my boots ready before the start of a climbing day. Happy to help. Hi Peter, Thanks for sharing your experience with these boots and I’ll keep my eye out for the new Scarpa Phantom boots. I have a question regarding the Raichel expedition boots. http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/learn_climbing_knots.asp, http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Mountain-Boots/Vega-HA-SCA-VEGAHA, http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1138, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-spantik.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/08/its-back-scarpa-6000-dbl-boot-and-2.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/scarpa-phantom-ultra.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-baruntse.html. The other issue is that any mountaineering boot has a limited lifespan before the insulation get compacted rendering it less effective, so you’d be running the risk by using it on Aconcagua that it wouldn’t work well when you really need it on a colder mountain. I’ve experimented with both and I am generally in favour of the gaiter going over the trouser and this is still achievable even with the new slimmer lower volume Olympus Mons Evo. Ama Dablam 2006 – Incident update Unfortunately on the morning of the 14th Nov there was an incident involving a huge serac fall / avalanche on Ama Dablam in which 6 people lost their lives. Around its perimeter an outward-facing cliff ascends as high as 10 km (6 miles) above the surrounding area. I don’t like my boots to be too stiff around the upper and ankles in particular. Cheers, Paul. Hi Paul, I’m a little bit new to the mountain world having started out with trekking in the Annapurna’s a couple of years ago and climbed Kilimanjaro last summer but this year I am stepping up to do Mt Blanc, with a view to doing Elbrus and Aconcagua next year. For blood circulation you need to have plenty of room around your feet, so don’t make the mistake of buying boots that are too small. I’ve signed on to a Dan Mazur led team (10 Oct to 10 Nov). I have had frost bite on my feet and lost toes as a result of it. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Mountaineering Boot $1,199.00. Can I swim in 55 F swimming pool at the gym? BTW… you may want to get a good boot fitter involved. It also can take a while going around to all the different stores trying to find your size. Also keeping all those batteries alive, it wound be interesting to get your thoughts on solar panels. Both successfully summited and had the warmest dryest feet in their Camps! I have climbed to 6200m near to Ama Dablam before in mid Nov and it’s noticeably colder than Oct, so you are right to be thinking carefully. Also remember that your feet can swell up a bit at altitude when you have been using them, so if in doubt be generous on the sizing. Let me know if it doesn’t. Some people take a lighter pair of climbing boots to use between BC and C2. Welcome home (belated) and great to see more posts coming through. My dillema is that I dont want to go too over the top if its not neccesary, but at the same time dont want to have to upgrade later. I think 6mm is ok. The Cordura gaiter is nicely slimline and very hard wearing and is a massive improvement on the previous version. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo; Millet Everest Summit GTX; Foot Care. In fact you could argue that this is better as it means less room for failure. I did plan to buy some Millet’s, but I am finding it difficult to locate some in the Uk. Also something for 6,000-7,000m mountains. we are planning a normal EBC trek in may 2012, as you did this year as i can read in a post before. bless you for your patience answering a myriad of boot questions! I’d recommend that you consider La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX which would be suitable and only weigh 1000 grams each. The main protagonists are La Sportiva (Olympus Mons Evo), the Millet (Everest) and the Scarpa (8,000ers*). The III model is not the latest – you can tell it by the large Millet writing on the front of the gaiter, and rough rubber on the sides of the boot. Health Info; Altitude; Using Oxygen; How to avoid getting cold hands; Further Everest Info; Expedition Top Tips; Skills. However given that you will make this trip at least 3 times on an expedition, it’s worth considering, as weight saved on your feet is very significant. Soaking your legs and feet in warm water (40C) is excellent and highly recommended. Another option would be the Millet Alpinist GTX as I want to get inot some ice climbing too… Also, can this style of boot do pretty much the same thing as the plastic ones these days? I have heard to rub raw ginger on the toes…… Anyone has experience in this? La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube S £ 835.00 – £ 915.00; Sale! This is a wonderful boot discussion and one of the best informed ones at that! any agency you could recommend for the trek and summit. Everest Kit List; Down Suits Review; La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo review; Millet Everest boot review; Info & Tips. On summit night on any mountain it’s really important to have warm feet, because it’s usually colder given that it’s night time and the altitude is higher. I’ve been climbing in europe, caucas, kirgistan (never above 5500 -but sometimes in winter) and been using either a light weight la sportiva (k4) or my old kofalch’s. But if I wasn’t limited to those choices, I’d probably actually go with something a bit lighter from La Sportiva – ask at your local retailer. It doesn’t take long to whip a layer off or pop a layer on and can make the difference between comfort and misery particularly if pre-empted. i recently bought the raichle expedition boots and have been looking for reviews, or a comparison of them. I have worked WITH Intuition for the past 20 years and fit thousands of liners into Ski Boots, Snowboard Boots, and High Altitude Climbing Boots. Hope this helps. I really don’t have any trouble with climbing boots on this foot, so I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend you go for a larger size. The Millet has some stupid (and I do mean stupid) red string (and I do mean string) … they are a very poor excuse for laces. Chemical toe warmers are not that good, because not much air gets inside your boots, so the reaction doesn’t occur as much, and they are not hot. It is 300 km (185 mi) from the base to the summit. would be nice to have some infos from your experience, thanks. My only hesitation is that if you were walking over a lot of loose, small moraine, I am not sure how the outer material on would wear. Produced and designed in a small mountain town at the foot of the Dolomites, La Sportiva supports 140 families in a unique and enviable environment. Look at the best that La Sportiva or Millet have and take these. Please advise. But, importantly, they are simply superior. These boots are great for climbing the normal routes on 6000m trekking peaks in Nepal in the Fall and Autumn climbing seasons. Hi Yes, I will write a summary of my experience this year and compare it to 2006. No need for fiddly knots and therefore no chance of fiddly knots coming undone. I always carry a spare set of batteries to have for emergencies. I found the pain so was bad when I did this that I had to have very strong pain killers. I have a Euro size 45 1/3 and in normal shoes I take a 43. You can always take off layers elsewhere on your body if you are too hot. The gate will open and let the rope out. La Sportiva OLYMPUS MONS EVO and Millet EVEREST GTX. Ski-mountaineering boots. Paul. Millet Everest Summit GTX The Millet Everest is big, wide and a common complaint is that they are sloppy. I use the Olympus Mons on Everest and they are fabulous but I wouldn’t want that boot for river crossings and rock/moraine hiking unless you were prepared to likely trash them on the expedition. The laces from either side of the boot end up attached in to nice big pull tab. David ..New Zealand. Hi Paul I’m writing to ask you for your adwice. Equally the boot has got to be up to the job in hand, be rugged and totally bomb proof. *I haven’t tried and tested the newer Scarpa 8,000ers but I know a few people who have them and they all say the same thing … the gaiter with its circular zipper system is ridiculous and just ends up sinking down the leg like a baggy loose spring. Then, using the tab from left to right and back again you hook both laces into an open lace hook and end up popping the tab on to a velcro patch. When I used to work in a gear store I was always trying to convince people to buy bigger mountaineering boots than they wanted, as several factors combine to make you need all the size you can get. It’s quite difficult to compare like for like as it partly … Is it right to go half a UK size up? I have tried a few times making a vapour barrier by placing a very thin plastic bag between an inner sock and an outer sock. Hi Paul, Doing Mera peak soon can you recommend boots for this trip for the snow section, have been looking at Koflach arctis expe and degree, and la sportiva spantiks, keen on doing Nth col next year as well so really only want to buy boots once wouldnt think ill get higher than 7500m in the future. The Spantik http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-spantik.html, Scarpa 6000 http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/08/its-back-scarpa-6000-dbl-boot-and-2.html, Scarpa Phantom Ultra http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/scarpa-phantom-ultra.html, The Baruntse http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-baruntse.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-sportiva-baruntse-revisted.html. i don’t have much experience with extreme cold and cant tell how my feet react to it. If this was your plan, then it’s possible that you might only do 1 acclimatisation trip through the icefall, in which case it may not be worth the weight and hassle of bringing an extra pair of boots up to C2. If you do not have a wide foot 4 sizes seems like something is a miss. If you were worried about your physical ability up high, I think LaSportiva is a good choice, however do minimize the time that you wear them by using other boots down lower on the mountain. Head and Hands. Or if anybody else has some feedback it would be much appreciated? This makes you feet get colder and compounds the problem. So that means no rubbing or massage of any sort anywhere near the affected area. Batura and Spantiks are sure the way to go.”. Half an hour later I put my outer boots in my bag too. I would like to add that for climbing Aconcauga or other like kind mountains with the Nepal EVO it would be a good idea to have a super gaiter for extra insulation for summit day. But if I was to go again and climb on the same schedule I would use lighter boots up to C2 (talking about Nepal side) and then use something better up high. Thinner wool or synthetic liner socks. Jill, Dallas, TX Paul, it is so good to see a new post from you! These boots are reasonably tough and sturdy, however they are heavy. These can be very useful. If you did take the Baruntse boots, you might also need another pair of lightweight gaiters to stop snow from entering. To release from the rope, hold the carabiner by the tape handle and roll the fixed rope over the gate, pressing down onto the gate. That way you’ll feel more comfortable, have less weight to carry and if it does get cold or there is some emergency you can instantly heat up your boots to +32C for 18 hours with a single pair of batteries. If you really want something good for Aconcagua, get a lighter weight mountaineering boot and use Hottronic heated insoles. Not only would you be hot and uncomfortable, but you’d find the going tough because of the extra weight and that they are pretty clumsy when on rock. The velcro and the zipper extend way down to the front of the boot making opening and removing the boots a cinch. Good luck. they are also so light. Size: Unisex 42.0 Color: Yellow/Black Retail Cost: $990.00 The Men's Olympus Mons Evo Mountaineering Boot is La Sportiva's solution for ascending 8,000 meter peaks like Everest. We jury rigged it but knocking out a tooth and putting the zipper back together…the second pair has been totally fine…but yes-it is a weakness in the design for sure. The other effect at altitude is that air pockets within any closed cell insulation will expand due to their relatively higher pressure compared to the ambient air. They will feel big at sea level, but by the time you add socks and altitude (makes closed cell foam expand), combined with a bit of swelling in your feet, you’ll probably find them about right. Start with about 3 metres of 6mm climbing cord and tie one end into a carabiner using a clove hitch knot (This site has an example of a clove hitch being tied into a carbiner, except I tie it into the smaller side of the carbiner http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/learn_climbing_knots.asp). Hi Nabs, I have bought boots from http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com (search by brand is the easiest). So glad you are taking the time and effort to share all of this information with us. So I'd suspect they'd be plenty warm. I think the Scarpa 6000 looks good and would be warm. LaSportiva also has really poor customer support service and the Olympus were costing quite more for me than the Scarpa’s (cost wise). Super insulated, this double boot combines a lightweight Vibram ® PE outsole, reflective insoles and dual-density, ventilated foam liner to provide best-in-class insulation. I find that they are extremely roomy. Once you were on the glacier, the Olympus Mons would be fine so perhaps a lighter pair of hikers could see you in and out. You want something that is nice and stiff to take a crampon firmly, which isn’t the most comfortable to wear when walking on a track. These can be found in a men’s US 5.0. I just noticed that Scarpa are coming next year with new orange Phantom 8000’s. are they everest ready? We are climbing cho oyu in april 2009 and i was goiing to buy millet boots in belgium the price is about 550euro and as you sayed you now stores in kathmandu maybe i could buy them there already with internet is this possible Best regards Yves PS Sorry if my english is not so good. Having said that, these boots tend to be a bigger fit than you would otherwise wear for other activities so you may well find that any of the brands and models will fit you with plenty of wiggle room. I do have a wide foot and so was favouring the Millet from the reviews I have read. Debating what crampon bindings to get. And, unlike the G12s, the Vasaks don’t have serrations on the rear heel points which have been known to catch on the ladder rungs whilst crossing crevasses (check out this video to see the consequences of getting your heel caught mid ladder). Which one will be better for warmth and using the same pair over and over again, the Millet or La Sportiva ? Millet Everest-GTX Expedition Boots $800 - I have owned La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo (gave to my Sherpa) and Millet Everest One Sport (destroyed by United Airlines) but need to have a new pair for Vinson and Everest. You definitely don’t want it too be too tight as this is a recipe for frostbite (that’s not how I got mine however). By removing or adding thin or thick layers you can regulate your temperature according to whether you are working hard, standing still at a belay, resting for lunch or whether the weather has changed and it is getting warmer or cooler. I can’t find an Alpine 35/45L backpack that fits properly. The new Everest GTX boots are only about 2700 grams per PAIR, so now that they are lighter, would that make them more suitable for something like Aconcagua? In UK summer, Scottish winter or The Alps it is not uncommon for people to have 3, 4 or even 5 pairs of boots that can be swapped and changed according to the weather conditions, the activity being undertaken and the length of day. Another thing that I think really deserves a mention is that the larger sizes of boot still have a reasonably narrow sole width at the heel. Your website is such a great resource of valuable and interesting information…thank you! Paul. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons has a Velcro fastening protecting the zipper behind but the Millet Everest has gone one step further with some industrial strength Velcro complete with pull tabs that protect a deep seated zipper that opens way down to the front of … There is a set at my local store and they have been sitting for a very long time i believe and are happy to flog them of for $200. I noticed that your gear list included Hotronic foot warmers. -Bjarne. Looking for a pair of boot right now, but i am stuck with the info all around the web. I think that the VEGA HA will be adequate, but I’d suggest talking to Dan about it. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons is perhaps the most popular double boot on the market for extreme cold. So it is vitally important to make sure that a) you have the right sock combination and b) that the boots are suitable for the day’s activity. Hi Quang, I’d advise against using Koflachs on Everest. $314.99 - $545.89. I have said it before, but I’d suggest looking at a hotronic foot warmers and 2 spare pairs of batteries. A bent gate is much easier. For the type of non technical climbing you are talking about it’s better to have a boot that is too large because it allows for more blood circulation and therefore will keep your feet warmer. A minimum of two hours before I am due to leave, I put my climbing socks on and then my boot liners on my feet inside my sleeping bag. On Everest (and other ultra-high altitude mountains) however, this flexible approach is not really an option. (i noticed your concern about the weight on previous models). Paul. In January 09. had any exp with them? I usually wear European size 43-44 boots / runners, and I have size 45 in my Millets. Good luck, Paul A. If you are climbing trekking peaks in Nepal, then the same setup will work there. I have a generic foot and I wear a US size 12 for all my shoes and boots. As to what boots would be best, that’s tricky. You need to know your size and pre order them. G2SM is pretty damn awesome, so am using those up to 6600m. I have sought advice from a few locations and am looking for a consensus. What are you thoughts,recommendations pls. The Olympus Mons Cube is an upgrade from the Olympus Mons Evo. Over 6600m I use La Sportiva Olympus Mons just for the added isolation, but they are way more incomfortable to climb with versus the G2SM. I have Asolo8000 boots, which are not bad. If I was going again, I would be doing this (maybe climb the trekking peak several times and try to sleep high), so would only make one acclimatisation trip up to C3. I ordered a pair of La Sportiva from the UK and they fit too snugly. Keep any loose ends neat with more duct tape. I’m in the midst of preparing trip to EBC in 2011 April. what we thinking about is jacket & gloves: we (me & my wife) have booth a 600cuin down jacket (of dynafit) and another sleeveless vest with 750cuin down. No recommendations for any dealers I am afraid. Hi Paul, Any caomparitive suggetions for Mono Evo & Scarpa Phantom for Summit, or any thing better. Designed with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, the La Sportiva G2 SM is being marketed as the ultimate boot for the serious high-altitude mountaineer. can this package get lighter? Product Condition: The Olympus Mons Evo Mountaineering Boot - Men's is in Good condition. PS Assuming you are going the normal route on Lhotse, you are unlikely to be doing much front pointing. Here are my thoughts on them. However they are not as warm, although this extra warmth might only be needed on summit night and could easily be countered with Hotronics (see previous post). 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